By February, the glow of the holiday season has dimmed, leaving us all yearning for a change of scene. On a whim, my two best friends and I decided to trade woollen coats for kaftans, drizzle for sunshine, and a routine winter for the chaos of Marrakesh, just a brief three-hour flight away from Paris. Exotic, luxurious, and unexpectedly peaceful, Marrakesh offered us a perfect blend of indulgence and discovery.
Checking into Opulence at the Mandarin Oriental
Our introduction to Marrakesh’s splendour began at the Mandarin Oriental, a retreat that doesn’t merely define luxury—it reinvents it. To call where I stayed a "room" would be an injustice. The Mandarin Oriental, Marrakesh offers no ordinary accommodations. Here, you’ll choose between suites and villas, each a self-contained sanctuary of refined design and tranquillity.
We stayed in a sprawling 292 sqm private villa, which was itself a destination. Imagine your own outdoor swimming pool, an intimate kitchen for alfresco dining (is there anything better than morning mint tea by the fire?), and an outdoor bed perfect for stargazing. The bathroom alone could rival most apartments in Paris; its expanse of marble includes a walk-in wardrobe, a steam-room shower, a freestanding tub, and a selection of covetable Diptyque products.
The design, a nod to traditional Berber architecture, effortlessly combines heritage with modern elegance.
Each villa is paired with its own dedicated butler, a quiet yet intuitive presence only a WhatsApp message away. From freshly chopped firewood for the fireplace to a replenished stash of mint tea, every request is met with the kind of thoughtful attention.
Days at the Mandarin Oriental began leisurely, with leisurely breakfasts before heading to the Pool Garden, where fresh seafood was grilled to perfection. Here, I had the most divine iced fruit dessert—think passion fruit, roasted pineapple, and lemon intermingling with coconut sorbet and Catalan cream. Evenings, meanwhile, were lit by lanterns and revelry at Ling Ling by Hakkasan, infused with bold, contemporary Cantonese flavours, transforming later into a festive soirée.
More than just a hotel, the property is home to MO Studio, a curated art space that has turned this luxury retreat into a cultural hub for locals and visitors alike. We were fortunate enough to witness the hotel's first exhibition Rythme Des Dunes by Li Chevalier. Her work, inspired by the majestic Moroccan dunes, transported us into a poetic exploration of identity and memory.
For relaxation, the Moroccan spa and its traditional hammam joined our itinerary — a moment of serenity, leaving us rejuvenated for the adventures ahead.
Into the Agafay Desert – A Nomadic Dream at Alkamar Camp
Just 45 minutes outside of Marrakesh, the stark, lunar-like beauty of the Agafay Desert was our next destination. This is not the Saharan dunes, but a rocky desert that feels no less mesmerising. We arrived at AlKamar Camp, where an infinity pool shimmered incongruously against the vast, golden dunes.
The charm of Alkamar lay not only in its breathtaking surroundings but also in the warmth of its people. Mohammed, a kind nomad from a family in the Merzouga desert, was our guide and storyteller. By the campfire, he shared tales of his family's life in the desert, offering us a rare glimpse into the Berber way of being.
Lively berber performances, complete with dazzling fez hats, created a warm and joyful introduction to regional traditions.
Daytime brought its own dose of excitement. We sped through desert trails on quad bikes, the sun-painted dunes stretching endlessly ahead. For a slower pace, sunset camel rides with panoramic views sealed our connection to the beauty of the land.
There was even a sprinkle of unexpected winter wonder; on our last day, we woke up to rare freezing weather and a light fog, a whimsical reminder that beauty is incredibly fleeting.
A Finale of Sophistication – The Four Seasons Marrakesh
Returning to the city, our final stay was at the Four Seasons Marrakesh. Enveloped within a sprawling 16-hectare garden inspired by traditional Moorish landscaping, the estate captures the intoxicating scent of jasmine and roses, creating an atmosphere that feels like a sanctuary of paradise. The space is designed in the Medina style with soft, rose-hued pavilions lightly dotting the expanse.
Each dining experience unfolded like a story—dinner at Quattro welcomed us with contemporary Italian flavours, while rooftop Zest Bar drinks gave us a front-row seat to Marrakesh’s vibrant sunsets and Atlas Mountains views. The following day, lunch at Azzera by the pool was just the refresher we needed, with Mediterranean dishes served under the olive trees.
But It was the breakfast that truly captivated me—a sensory start to the day that told stories of Morocco with every bite. The Egg Tagine Taktouka stands out, featuring a perfectly spiced Moroccan capsicum and tomato ragout, while the Egg Tagine Khlii showcases the deep, savory notes of veal confit.Traditional Baghrir pancakes, soft and honeycombed, make for a delightful companion to the morning's spreads. But perhaps the stars of the table are the Msemen, flaky and indulgent, and Harcha, a tender, buttery semolina bread that lingers long on the palate.
A Walk Through Culture
The Medina and the Souks
The Medina is the city’s beating heart. Wandering within its labyrinth of alleys is an immersive experience in itself - an explosion of colours, scents, and sounds. Here, I found a treasure trove of handwoven rugs, intricate ceramics, richly coloured textiles, fragrant spices and of course that very precious organ oil. Engaging with artisans in the souks – watching them dye leather, carve wood, and mould brass – was a testament to Marrakesh’s enduring spirit of craftsmanship. Bargaining with the vendors is an art form here, and once you master it, you’re rewarded with not just a keepsake but an experience.
Amidst the winding alleys of the Medina, one store captivated me entirely—a dimly lit haven run by an enigmatic old man who seemed plucked from the pages of an ancient tale. With his white hair and piercing blue eyes, he resembled an alchemist, surrounded by shelves of curious wares. Spooky talismans against malevolent spirits hung beside jars of natural remedies for headaches, insomnia, amber squares, each item imbued with mystique.
Majorelle Garden and the YSL Museum
On a quieter day, we made our way to the Majorelle Garden, a lush haven of cacti, exotic plants, and streams, all set against rich cobalt blues. Designed by French painter Jacques Majorelle and lovingly restored by Yves Saint Laurent, the garden is equal parts art and tranquillity.
Right next door, the Yves Saint Laurent Museum offered an intimate glimpse into the designer’s creative world. From iconic fashion sketches to jaw-dropping gowns, the collection ignites a newfound appreciation for the brand’s timeless impact on design and culture.
The Marrakesh State of Mind
Marrakesh isn’t just a city; it’s an experience—an intoxicating combination of sensory overload and moments of utter serenity. A place where history and modernity live side by side. It reminds you that luxury isn’t just in services or amenities, but in moments—basking in the desert sun, tasting flavours that linger long after your meal, or conversations with those who connect you to worlds you’ve never known.
Whether you’re escaping February’s gloom solo, with friends, or for romance, Marrakesh will meet your every expectation—and surpass it.
All images by Marta Romashina.